enigma Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 and others who are interested. basically there are 3 options. 1. using a bounce box. Bend the flash so it can lie on the lid facing up at an angle. Position the flash on the right/left side (not middle). some tissue as a diffuser. some light to help focusing on the fish. The box(19”L x 9”W x 8”H) is used to reflect the flash back into the tank. inside is covered with aluminium foil one side is also cut to allow some transmission. 2. holding the flash with my left hand while the camera is on the right hand. 3. resting on a shoebox final i only use this method for 2-3ft tank. haven't really tried on bigger tank. might need to modify the setup (bigger bounce box/taller shoebox/or something else) btw i'm looking for something solid in the near future. i guess those cardboard boxes won't last long HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonauv Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 Cool - is it triggered with the ST-E2 or are you using a radio signal trigger (how does it trigger inside the box? Up through the front glass to the top???) I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy one ($200ish on Ebay) - Also thinking of using the off camera shoe cord (OCSC2) but it's only 60cm long and so pretty restricting. On APF the sto-fen ominbounce was recommended or a lightshpere II (without the dome) to make some space between the flash and the top glass. I like the look of both of these (the lightsphere for non-aquarium portrait photography) but these shoe boxes are a great idea too. I really like the cut-out back idea so you can angle it out a bit to throw light onto the 'back' of the subject. That would really help to isolate it from the background and avoid shadows. For bigger tanks I suppose you just place the flash straight onto (or pretty close anyway - they get pretty hot don't they) the glass??? Thanks for taking the time to post these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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